Umbhaco the Xhosa attire in popular demand

 Story by Anele Zikali

Image sourced from Lulutho Lush Pinterest 

Traditional outfits simply portray the identity and culture of a particular ethnic group. The Xhosa traditional attire is one of the most popular trends in South Africa. Mostly people wear it to showcase the rich culture of the Xhosa ethnic groups, the style, fashion and what is trendy. 

The attire is called umbhaco and it made out of strong material that does not easily tear with a plain bold colour, with line prints in the edges. The outfit is complimented by creative and artistic features such as accessories made of beads, headwraps, black and white colouring on the face. 


Image of author Mercy Nqandeka  

It is about pride, fashion, heritage and identity. From young children to youth and adults, the Xhosa print is still resembled strongly in traditional style. There is a variety of options to choose from especially for females. 

A closer look into dresses and skirts 

Image source: @Shukrani on X

There are so many options for women as the designs allow room for custom-made outfits with the blend of original style and an addition of customised designs and fashion designers have room for exploring without offending the culture. 

The original skirts and dresses usually have  wide-straight-cut or flare designs at the bottom, taking the mermaid shape to cocktail dresses. The original designs were wide- straight-cut with a bright plain colour. 

Image of the original photos in 1973, source @mlAfrica on X

 Xhosa costumes usually have big layers taking from original designs however with evolving times that original make is still relevant and popular. There have been add-ons and creativity like tight designs than the original flare or wide-straight-cut at the bottom. 

This makes a big bold fashion statement, as the culture is expressive, and allows designers to add creativity. The main key is to evolve with latest fashion trends whilst still upholding  original concept of the attire. 

Image sourced from online 

These dresses cut across through cultural events, weddings, imigidi, prestigious events in inner cities, internationally to work spaces and churches. The dress code traditionally has different ways to be worn for instance young girls can rock mini skirts whilst older women in mid 20s and up are expected to cover up quiet more. 

Image of Inako Matheza

Headwraps 

The head is covered most of the time with the black headwrap that has sewing thread stripes on the edges and few colorful beads, hair pins and colorful buttons. It is the way they are wrapped that make a grandeur of gallery. 


Image of Mama uWinnie Madikizela Mandela 

The headwraps are complementary to the skirts and dresses. Some wraps though go with the colour of the bottom item. It is better to ask someone who knows how to wrap the doek or practice with YouTube and Tiktok users who do show their GRWM trends or tutors on how to wear doeks stylishly. 

Headwrap with buttons and pins

Beaded accessories 

Beads also have different meanings according to cultural norms however those records are not popular on today's world. Most people  buy any beads as they love not really knowing the meaning. 

Full body beads display at Nelson Mandela Art Museum 


Image of Noxolo Grootboom 

So there are full body beads, necklaces, hand bands, hair bands, shoes decorated with beads and handbags, hand-crafted beads and earrings. Men and boys usually wear male designer head beads and body beads. 

Neck beads on display at Nelson Mandela Art Museum

Bright and Colorful 

Umbhaco is well known for its rich, bright and bold colors  with black stripes at the edges sometimes they are also colorful. The original colour is off-white also known as ivory or cream with the black stripes on the edges. 

Image from Facebook Namhla Khondlo

As this attire is quite open to creativity so designers have a range of choices without necessarily sticking to the ivory color. There is a grand scheme of colours to choose from. With social media platforms, people post different ranges of colors even unusual ones and the attires keep on looking dazzling. 

Most popular colours after the original ivory include red, orange, mustard, black and white. Lately unpopular ones are shades of green like mint, lime, brown, different shades of blue and royal purple. 

Image sourced from Instagram 

There are many inspirations that are popular nowadays and it is a thing of pride to parade in traditional apparel during events like imigidi, graduation ceremonies and many other home events. 

Image of Zozi Tunzi on her traditional wedding attire with her husband. 

Image of wedding guests at Zozi's Xhosa traditional theme

Proof is in the pudding with the latest wedding events, former Miss Universe Zozi Tunzi's that was followed by Anele Mdoda's wedding in umbhaco, there trend keeps on going onwards and upwards.

Image source of Anele Mdoda and her husband 

The attires are popular more than many years ago, they are worn across cultures and by many other people from different cultures. The outfits can be bought in store in many clothing retailers in most towns, online and custom made by fashion designers and others specialize on making these garments. 

For quality, check the reputation of the store or designer. Most of these attires last a lifetime because of the strength of the material used hence they come at a price. 

Enjoy the gallery of pictures, some of them were taken on social media platforms. 

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